Pool Chemistry 101: pH, Chlorine, Alkalinity, and Shock in Plain English

Pool Chemistry 101

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You don’t need a chemistry degree to keep a pool clear. You need to watch a handful of numbers and know which way to push each one. Start with the cheat sheet below, then use the guides when something goes wrong.

The numbers that matter

TestWhat it doesTarget
Free chlorine (FC)Kills germs and algaeAt least 1 ppm; at least 2 ppm with CYA (CDC)
pHControls how well chlorine works and how comfortable the water feels7.0–7.8 (CDC)
Total alkalinity (TA)Buffers pH so it doesn’t swing80–120 ppm ideal (Taylor)
Cyanuric acid (CYA)Shields chlorine from the sun, but the more you have, the more chlorine you needFollow your test kit’s guidance
Calcium hardnessProtects plaster and equipmentFollow your pool surface maker’s guidance
Combined chlorine (CC)Used-up chlorine; tells you when to shockAs low as possible

The guides

Fix a problem

  • How to Lower Pool pH How much muriatic or dry acid to add, cross-checked against several published charts.
  • How to Shock a Pool When to shock, which product to use, how much, and when it’s safe to swim.
  • Why Is My Pool Green? The five usual causes, how to tell algae from metal, and the step-by-step fix.

Test it right

  • Best Pool Test Kit Why a FAS-DPD drop kit beats strips for chlorine, and which kit to buy.

Make it a habit

Three rules that prevent most problems

  1. Keep chlorine matched to your CYA. Most green pools come down to too little chlorine for too long (ClearPoolCalc).
  2. Keep pH in range. At pH 7.5, only about half of your chlorine is in its active form (PHTA).
  3. Test with a kit you trust. DPD color tests can bleach out and read falsely low above about 10 ppm (CDC).

Safety

  • Wear gloves and eye protection.
  • Add chemicals to water, never water to chemicals.
  • Never mix pool chemicals together.
  • Follow every product label.
  • Poison Control: 1-800-222-1222.

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